Apprehension was the keyword this morning. Yesterday had been such a struggle and today I’m hoping to get to St Martin-Vesubie – crossing the Cols de Valberg, Couillole and St Martin. Last nights huge meal has made me afeel a lot better, but it’s also virtually cleared my emergency food stocks….and it’s sunday. I know that some bigger supermarkets open on sunday mornings, but up here in the mountains I’m worried about what I’ll find open to stock up.
Nothing else for it, get moving. The route takes me back through the village of Guillames and as I approach I hear what sounds like a big band playing….it is!
Guillames
It’s the local book and food festival – the town is full of stalls selling local
produce as well as second hand books. I bypass the books and head straight for the food – some from the stalls and basics from the local shops that are also open. What a relief – wholemeal pasta, bread, tins of sardines, cheese and bananas - excellent!
As I head towards Valberg, the first checkpoint of the day, I start feeling better and my apprehension eases as the sun and the road both start getting higher.
These mountain roads bring out not only the cyclists, but also the motorcyclists – in hordes! Having been a biker, I’m quite adept at distinguishing the rumble of the v-twin Harleys from the crackle of the sports bikes from the thump of the big single trail bikes, but the cacophony now approaching from below me sounds like a thunderstorm.
Finally I’m passed by a Harley with a Monaco plate…then another…then another…there must have been 30 of them, all out for a sunday morning ride – vast acres of chrome glinting in the sunlight.
As I discovered when i rented a Harley for a while in Florida, about the only good thing you can really say about them is that every shiny surface is perfectly angled to reflect your own image as you’re cruising along! No, I’m not a fan.
As I ride on, I pass a memorial to a cycle tourist called Alex Massafero who died at the age of 62, but who’s friends and family thought to erect a memorial at a most stunning spot on the mountain.
I arrive in Valberg to be greeted by the sight of all those Harleys parked up, their owners sipping coffee in the cafeopposite, happy to watch the tourists taking pictures of their pride and joy.
To the tourist office for the stamp, but it’s 1pm and the office is closed till 2! I’m not missing out on a stamp now, so
decide to take the sensible approach and have an early lunch. Sitting in the town square I get through bread, cheese and sardines, followed by a brief snooze in the shade.
2pm – office open, stamp done and it’s down and back up to the next Col. 
It’s a pretty easy one and as i freewheel down I
It’s a pretty easy one and as i freewheel down Iwonder if I’m feeling strong enough to take on another one. St Martin isn’t particularly high, but as I’ve descended so far,
there’s still 1100m of climbing to do. It’s now 4.15 and I decide to go for it. Into the rhythm and I’m glad of lunch.
Through yet more picture postcard towns and scenery and I’m feeling ok.
By the time I get to the top, I’m tired but happy to have done it. I need to check, but that was one of the biggest climbing days of the trip.
- Bathtubs on the mountainside?!
It’s now 7.30, so having found a campsite, it’s pasta (wholemeal this time!) and an early night.
Just 2 more cols to Nice!
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